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Denis Urubko

Unique sportsman, legendary mountaineer. Winner of numerous international awards and titles. Filmaker and writer .

Denis Urubko is one of the greatest active mountaineers today. He is one of only few mountaineers world-wide who have successfully ascended the 14 highest peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen. Together with his friend Simone Moro Denis succeeded the first winter ascents of Makalu (2009) and Gasherbrum II (2011). In 2010 Denis and Kazakh Boris Dedeshko were awarded the Piolet d’Or, the ‘Oscar’ of mountaineering, for their new route via the south face of Cho Oyu.

The Kazakh climbing phenomenon

Denis Urubko

In detail

Born in the mountainous region of the North Caucaus, between the Black and Caspian seas, Denis has always been at home in the mountains. They have become his life-long inspiration and motivation. With worsening asthma Denis moved with his family to the kinder climate of South Sakhalin. He made his first sport climbs at high-school, joining an alpine club. At the age of 19 he emigrated to Kazakhstan and joined the Kazakhstan Army. He continued to climb throughout the troublesome period of the collapse of the USSR. Seeking refuge in the mountains he participated in many expeditions and competitions, not only winning, but also setting world records. Denis achieved international recognition as a world-class alpinist with his outstanding ascents of each of the fourteen 8000m summits of the world without oxygen. Denis graduated journalism at the Al Farbi University in Almaty. He is an author of 11 books and numerous publications. He has received respect, not only for his incredible talent and mastery, but also for his attitude and ethical style. He has sacrificed summits to help other climbers in trouble.

What he offers you

Denis Urubko explores the concept of motivation in difficult and stressful conditions, teamwork, crisis management, and decision-making in situations of high risk. His speech is a powerful lesson of fulfilling dreams and commitment.

How he presents

Denis Urubko is an energetic and charismatic speaker. He talks passionately and leaves audiences inspired.


He presents in Russian, English and Italian.

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  • Success vs failure
  • The price you have to pay for success
  • Teamwork
  • Philosophy of being active
  • Leadership


  • Himalayan Crown Ascents of all 14 of the world’s 8000m summits without oxygen
  • Snow Leopard - He climbed the 5700m peaks of CIS in 42 days
  • Piolet d’Or Award, 2009
  • Eiger Award, 2009

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